When I planned our trip last June, I found the airline rates from Dallas/Fort Worth direct to Palm Sprigs to be very high. So, I booked us on a direct flight to Ontario Airport for a fraction of the cost. Since we were going to be renting a car with unlimited mileage anyway, it was easy to pick up our car at Ontario and drive on I-10 to Palm Sprigs. Actually, this time we decided that we wanted more sun time (the sun goes down behind San Jacinto Mountain as early at 3 p.m. depending on where in Palm Sprigs you are), so we booked a condo in La Quinta, the last suburb before Indio.
After checking in, we immediately opened up the condo and went out onto the terrace to see the magnificent flowers (hibiscus, bougainvillea, oleander, among others) that were in prolific bloom. It was a couple of hours before we headed for our first culinary adventure at Prego, a new to us Italian restaurant in Palm Desert. It'd been hours since a light lunch so I ordered the Bresaola con Rucola that Gourmet Magazine has raved about - thinly sliced air-dried beef, arugula, shaved fennel, and shaved Parmesan cheese with Balsamic vinaigrette. My husband marveled at their Black Mussels and Manila Clams in Spicy Tomato Broth. For my main course, I opted for the pesce (fish) of the day, a thin fillet of sole grilled with balsamic vinegar, rosemary, and thyme, served with sautéed spinach and tiny roasted Yukon Gold potatoes. David chose a grilled veal chop with rosemary, served with a sublime risotto with wild mushrooms and arugula. After an espresso, we returned to our condo to finish unpacking, followed by a brisk stroll around the expansive gardens and pool area. The sun comes up early on the desert, so it was soon to bed as we wanted to make the most of every day.
The next day we'd planned on going on the new aerial tramway to the top of San Jacinto, a trip we often made in former years in a cable car of not such modern design. Alas, we were warned that since I have artificial St. Jude heart valves (a result of rheumatic fever as a child) that I wouldn't be allowed on the tram. So, I situated myself in the shade of a group of palm tress by the pool while my husband, armed with camera, took the trip for both of us. He reported few changes in the lodge at the top of the tram and little difference in the flora and fauna of the trip. He did hike to the ridge so that he could see all of Palm Sprigs and the Coachella Valley below. After he returned, we drove to view the many wind farms that surround the area, gigantic windmills that produce a clean source of energy for the Valley and inland communities.
Dinner that night was at L.G.'s Steakhouse near the condo. This was when I really began to know the extent of the inflation in food costs in the area. I ordered a 6-ounce filet for $24.95 and that's exactly what I got - a 6-ounce filet, perfectly grilled, served on a small plate - no salad, no starch, no vegetable, not even any bread or a sprig of parsley. I asked for a serving of grilled asparagus on the side and got another small plate with 6 tiny spears of perfectly grilled asparagus for $8.95. My husband's dinner experience was virtually the same. Yet, the restaurant was filled (150 seats) with a 30 to 45 minute wait, and the area hosts three of these steakhouses, busy out of season.
The next morning, we went for a hike in one of the Indian Canyons, owned and maintained by the Agua Caliente Cahuilla Indians, their bottom mouths some three miles from Palm Canyon Drive, the main drag of Palm Springs. Of the four canyons, only Andreas Canyon made sense that June day, as it was the only one with water still running in its brook-that one runs all year. The brook is bordered by hundreds of palm trees, which provide perfect cool shade. The path, which at some points the Indians had hacked out of bedrock, ran along the brook for quite a while, and that was entirely pleasant, walking in the shade, seeing the brook running over its little waterfalls, and hearing it gurgle over its little rapids. Then it appeared that because of impassable terrain the path was going to run some distance away from the sheltering palms. The temperature starting to soar, I opted to sit in tranquility on a wooden bench in the shade of the palms with a cooling breeze coming off the side of the mountain while my mountain goat husband completed the hike. Before starting off, he threw cold spring water all over his head. After a while he returned, saying that it had been a good hiking experience, but on the way up, not knowing how far the end of the trail was, he had to wonder if his bones would be found one day, having died of heat stroke. Obviously, he made it all right, and we both enjoyed our stroll up Andreas Canyon.
After an afternoon drive over to Salton Sea where we used to spend hours in our boat, but now is terribly polluted, we returned to do some quick shopping at the incredible shops on El Paseo, a huge grouping of shops, boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants just a block off Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Desert. Here you could find anything you wanted, and lots you didn't even know you did. I did more looking than I did spending-both at the fabulous merchandise and at the street congested with Beemer's, Jaguars, Cadillac's, and Rolls Royce's.
Since this was our last night in Palm Sprigs, we decided to dine at Wally's Desert Turtle. Whereas the other restaurants were all smart casual in dress code, Wally's was more formal, which allowed me to wear a new dress I just happened to have bought before the trip. The ambience of the restaurant is equal to the service and exquisite food. I started with a favorite, Brazilian Hearts of Palm with Fresh Orange Vinaigrette, following that with Pan Broiled Whitefish served over Spinach with Fresh Dill. Delicious! My husband was more adventurous with a starter of Seared Ahi Tuna with Caviar and Crème Fraîche, followed by Ostrich Filet with Fresh Corn Cake and Juniperberry Sauce.
After breakfast the next day, there was only time for a quick walk around the resort, then it was pack up and leave for the airport. Although we did find it has more congested traffic and higher prices, Palm Springs will always hold a piece of our heart and I'm sure when Texas weather gets bitter and wet this winter, we'll find ourselves winging our way to our favorite desert city.
FTG
