I grew up in the suburbs of Philadelphia in the days when we lived in the shadow of New York. Because of Blue Laws, many people belonged to private eating clubs, like the wonderful Locust Club, where families could dine on fine food and spirits. The one my parents belonged to had an unassuming door with a slot in it. When you knocked, a face appeared and checked out if you belonged. Once inside, the main dining room looked like a large library. Shopping was done an hour and a half to the north in New York City where we always felt like country cousins in our conservative Philadelphia clothes. But, what we did have in our city of brotherly love, was Eugene Ormandy and the Philadelphia Orchestra, and the Children’s Concerts we all attended, the Children’s Theater, the Franklin Institute and the Museum of Natural Science, the wonderful Art Museum, skulling along the Schuykill, and all of the history by Independence Hall. But the city was dull and aging poorly.
What a difference Philadelphia presents to residents and visitors today. The center city has impressive skyscrapers, parks, University City, a beautiful waterfront, historic streets with renovated homes, and some of the best restaurants in the country. To add to all of this, there is great shopping in the area, both fancy and discount, and it’s all a short car ride away. Now, when family matters call us back to Philadelphia, we look forward to a walk on antique row or jewelers row, a ride to the Italian market, walking the cobblestone streets, visiting art galleries, and seeing a good show.
So now let me introduce you to the town of my childhood that has grown into an international city of the 1990’s.
First a few sentences about the history of this fine city. Most of this I can still remember from school; our teachers were very proud of Philadelphia and took us to the historic sites regularly. In 1682, King Charles II granted William Penn, an English Quaker, a parcel of land in lieu of a debt that the crown owed to Penn’s father, which was the start of Philadelphia. Immigrants flocked to Philadelphia so that by the start of the Revolutionary War it was the second-largest English speaking city in the world, London being the largest. Philadelphia became the capital of the young nation during the Revolution, except for nine months when it was occupied by the British.
As the colonies grew so did Philadelphia and it became the cradle for freedom hosting the First Continental Congress in 1774. In 1776, at Independence Hall, we declared our independence from Great Britain and in 1987 the Constitutional Convention was held in Philadelphia. It was the capital of the fledgling nation from 1790-1800. It was and remains a melting pot for immigrants.
Neighborhoods, in earlier times, were small communities of uprooted Europeans, which means that the city today boasts a diversity of peoples and foods. It boasts museums of many of these cultures, something that is missing from many other cities. It is a young city with a median age of about 33 years of age, and the metropolitan area includes 5.78 million people.
Getting to Philadelphia is easy. The Airport is close to the downtown area. Trains arrive at Amtrak’s 30th Street Station and driving in on I-95, I-76, and the Jersey Turnpike are easy. Once you’re there, take out your walking shoes and hoof it. Philadelphia is a walkers’ paradise. The streets are easy to follow as they are numbered one way, and have tree names the other. Society Hill and the Historical area are at one end of the city. At the other before you cross the river to University City, is the Rittenhouse Square area. There are many tourist services and even horse drawn carriages in Society Hill to show you the city if you get tired. Bus service and subways are also available.
Now let’s get going. If you decide to go to Philadelphia in March, you are in luck. March 7 to 14 is the famed Philadelphia Flower Show. This is the largest and most prestigious indoor flower show in the world. My memories of this event are as colorful as the exhibits that we saw each year, and to tell the truth I treasure the catalogues bought at each show. Long after we left the city, my father would send me one and I’d turn the pages enjoying the beauty and missing that most wonderful event. People come from around the world for this one so if you’re interested get your tickets early or make sure the concierge at your hotel has some put aside for you.
Also in March is the Food Network’s "The Book and the Cook Festival and Fair," March 19 to 28. This features more than 150 gourmet food and kitchenware exhibitors as well as many cooking stars of the Food Network. If you have children, the Franklin Institute is a must, and Franklin-He’s Electric opens March 5. This museum is celebrating 175 years of existence with its new permanent exhibit which blends interactive devices with rare and historical objects that chronicle the story of Franklin’s scientific achievements. This museum is a joy for parents and children. I know for a fact that the first time I walked through the museum with beating heart, I decided what I would do with my life, and I was preschool at the time. Of course, visiting the Planetarium changed my mind and so by now I should have NASA on my sleeve. Next door is the Academy of Natural Sciences Museum, another favorite of adults and children alike.
What else will go on in March? The Philadelphia Orchestra will be performing as will the Barber of Seville. The list for March is 12 pages long and varies from chamber music, to Sesame Street Live, to the St. Patrick’s Day Parade. To find out more just contact the Chamber of Commerce or you can write to Philadelphia Visitors Guide. PO Box 10240. Riverton. PA 08076. You can find them on the web at www.libertynet.org/phila-visitor
Now, lets say you are in town for the flower show, but you also want to get an idea about the rest of the city. Hire a horse and carriage and take a ride around Independence National Park. You will ride on cobblestone streets and see Independence Hall and Congress Hall which are next to each other. The Second Bank of the United States, which is a Greek Revival building, has a gallery with portraits of famous Americans. Also on Chestnut Street is the New Hall Military Museum and down the alley is Carpenter’s Hall, the site of the First Continental Congress. You can also visit City Tavern on Walnut Street, a reconstruction of a meeting place for the First and Second Continental Congress, and if you’re not hungry, come in anyway to see it. There’s more to see like Christ Church where Benjamin Franklin, George Washington and Betsy Ross worshipped, and then on to the Church Burial Ground where a penny thrown on Franklin’s grave is supposed to bring you luck. You can end your day at the Edgar Allen Poe National Historical site knowing that you have walked and driven through the early history of our nation.
If you saw the movie Rocky you know the steps of the Philadelphia Art Museum. This museum was founded in 1876 and has impressive collections from Asia, Europe and the US, with the largest Impressionist collection in the US. But it is not the only art game in town, The Museum of American Art of the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts is America’s first art museum. I took art lessons here as a child and enjoyed the museum which became a second home on Saturdays. Philadelphia also has a Rodin Museum and the Goldie Palley Gallery at Moore College of Art and Design. Don’t miss the museums at the University of Pennsylvania if you are interested in Egyptian artifacts or modern American art. When I was a student there, Friday afternoons were spent studying archeology, but my motivation was to spend time away from labs and to enjoy the museum. If you have a car, have children with you, or love animals, don’t miss the Philadelphia Zoo. Again the oldest, but updated and a pleasant way to take a walk.
Finally, when we go to a new city and don’t have the time to see every thing, we often hire a cab and ask him to drive around to get the flavor or the city and the areas we won’t have time to visit. Certainly boat house row at night is beautiful; the Japanese House and Gardens, Fairmont Park, and the neighborhoods of the city including the University area and China town are worth seeing.
Eating in Philadelphia is a joy these days. Our favorites may not be yours, but if you have been to Suzanna Foo’s, Le Beck Fin, or Striped Bass all in Center City for a treat, you have enjoyed four star meals. Down on Second Street there are many good restaurants like La Famigila, and to tell the truth the aromas of ethnic food that permeates the streets makes you hungry just walking by. You all know how to look up restaurants on the web using Fodor’s or some other reputable resource, and if you’ve used up enough calories walking do try a Philadelphia soft pretzel with mustard or a bite of a Philly Cheese Steak. I said a bite, because these are beyond calorie and fat count, but a taste will not be soon forgotten. Also remember that Philadelphia was the ice-cream capital and pizza capital of the region and so they are wonderful too. Your significant other who doesn’t have diabetes will thank you for those treats.
Philadelphia, the city that comedians love to make fun of, is alive and well. It sings with ethnicity and art of all kinds. Its suburbs are some of the most beautiful of the country; its inner city one of the most exciting; its people some of the friendliest. A long weekend visiting in the early spring will bring a smile to your face and you’ll take home memories of our past and ideas for your future. Give it a try. It no longer stands in the shadow of that other city 1 1/2 hours to the north -- the one with apple in its name.
