may 2000

A Weekend in Newport, Rhode Island

For the past 20 years, one of my favorite New England haunts has been historic Newport, Rhode Island. I'll never forget the thrill of driving over the Newport Bridge and seeing Newport Harbor for the first time. It was America's Cup time and the race trials were in progress-looking out to sea, one was in awe of the 12-meter beauties with their colorful jibs unfurled to catch the stiff Atlantic winds. On this first trip, we'd booked into a charming bed & breakfast within walking distance of Thames Street, the main thoroughfare along the harbor. The room was doll-size but we didn't care as we'd be spending most of the time browsing through the world-class boutiques, dining on fresh fish with spectacular harbor views, and walking through this tiny city by the sea. Dinner was at Scales & Shells, specializing in Italian seafood on a first come, first serve basis. We went early and it was already jammed with people devouring clams, oysters, and mussels-our choice, also. A delicious Italian salad followed and we were too full to be even tempted by the beautiful array of fruits and pastry desserts.
Early the next day, we'd booked passage on one of the chase boats to actually be within easy sight of the trial race between France, the United States, and Australia! With our binoculars trained on the crews, we could clearly see their movements and faces as they tacked back and forth, rounding the markers, etc. What a thrilling sight, but again we were glad of how sea-worthy my husband and I both are with years of sailing experience as the seas were quite rough and several of the other passengers were not enjoying the trip as much as we. Lunch was a picnic provided by the charter boat consisting of finger sandwiches, fresh veggies for munching, fresh fruits, and gallons of iced tea. Being surrounded by all that water, makes for thirsty people!

France won that particular trial and as we came back into the harbor we could hear the merry-making of the winning crew. Then we noticed that the crews from the other America's Cup boats were also in attendance and joining in the camaraderie that competitive yachtsmen and yachtswomen around the world enjoy. Dinner that night was booked for a late sitting at The White Horse Tavern, est. 1673 and the oldest operating tavern in the United States. Candlelit room and cavernous fireplaces combined with old world service and innovative cuisine produced a truly exceptional dining experience. I'd brought a special dress for the occasion and my husband looked spectacular in his black evening clothes. When we're at the sea, we always dine on what's local and what's fresh and the chef didn't let us down. It was a memorable meal and a wonderful star-lit night for strolling back to our room.

The next morning after a continental breakfast in our room, we drove along Ocean Drive to Hammersmith Farm, the summer White House during the Kennedy administration and the scene of the wedding reception of President John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier. Acres of luscious rolling lawns, breath-taking scenes of Narragansett Bay, the formal gardens, and the unique miniature horses have never failed to delight us. The Farm is open daily April through mid-November with special Christmas tours from November 26th through December 19th.

Back in town, we parked at Bowen's Wharf where we shopped for hand blown glass, a piece of scrimshaw, some hand-dipped candles, and a lovely shawl of Irish mohair. Lunch was at The Black Pearl, a quintessential harborfront restaurant that's famous for its tomato-based clam chowder. After a steaming bowl of chowder and some of the old-fashioned New England water crackers, we were ready for a walk. Since the day was spectacular, we opted for the Cliff Walk, a 3.6 mile trail that provides vistas of the rugged coastline of Narragansett Bay on one side and the famous historic "Summer Cottages" of America's first millionaires that are legendary of Newport's fabled opulent past on the other.

Over the years, we have visited most of these restored mansions-The Breakers, Marble House, Chateau-sur-Mer, The Elms, Kingscote, and Rosecliff. We're tried several times to view the fabulous Green Animals Topiary Garden, but weather or a temporary closing has always interfered.

There's always something to do or see in Newport. Here's a short list of some of the special activities planned for this summer: June 1-6, the Newport International Film Festival; June 18-20, the Secret Garden Tours; June 29-July2, the Tall Ships Festival on Narragansett Bay; July 4, the 4th of July Fireworks (it's spectacular every year); July 9-25, the 31st Annual Newport Music Festival (we've attended this often); July 10-11, the Newport Kite Festival; July 10-11, the Newport Flower Show at Rosecliff; August 13-15, the JVC Jazz Festival (always great); and September 3-5, the Classic Yacht Regatta and Parade Day.

On our way out of town, we stopped for our final Newport meal at The Mooring Restaurant, one of our favorite Newport restaurants, overlooking the harbor at the Newport Yachting Center. This restaurant consistently serves excellent seafood so after splitting a starter salad with my husband, I ordered Seafood Scampi as my main course-a terrific combination of fresh lobster, scallops, and shrimp broiled with tomatoes and fresh herbs. My husband indulged in Grilled Yellow Fin Tuna, glazed with a pineapple soy sauce and topped with wasabi and pickled ginger. All too soon it was time for the return trip across the Newport Bridge (there's a charge in this direction) and soon we were back on I-95 headed home.

Whether you come to for a romantic getaway weekend; a few days to recharge your batteries; or merely want to enjoy some time with the children in a place where they can learn about the sea, rent a kayak or canoe, charter a leisurely sail on a 12-meter boat, or go horseback riding and watch the sun set while galloping along the beach, Newport is a playground for the young and old. No wonder it's been giving visitors reasons to stay for more than 400 years. For more information on special events, accommodations, dining, and shopping, visit the Newport website at www.GoNewport.com.

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