When our spa friend announced that she and her husband were building a summer house on Orcas Island, one of the 172 San Juan Islands off the coast of the state of Washington, we were excited for her and couldn't wait to see the site. They had purchased land with two homes on Orcas Island, one of the few inhabited islands of the San Juan. One home they would raze and then build on its footings so as to retain water front views; the other they would turn into a guest house. The house is now almost complete, the guest house in order, and we got our plane tickets to Seattle and Orcas Island for a week of healthy fun.
To get to the San Juan Islands, after landing in Seattle, you can take a seaplane, not for us as they take few people and they limit luggage; the ferry, which we may consider in the future; or Harbor Air, which is part of Alaska Air. Now let me tell you how we found out how small our plane would be. We were seated in Starbuck's looking out at Mount Baker's snow cap through one window and the Cascades out another, waiting for our flight when we saw a very small plane taxi in among the large jets. The three of us traveling together just looked at each other and ordered another espresso, thinking that we would need our courage. The airline personnel ask you what you weight, weigh your luggage and hand bag so that weight inside the plane is evenly distributed. All right, so small planes may be a problem, but to tell the truth, the half hour flight to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island was so breathtakingly beautiful with the sun setting on the water, the islands each different in topography, that we had landed and taken off for Orcas before we could become white knuckled, and landed in ten minutes to the waves of our friends' greetings.
Even at night Orcas Island is awesome. The huge Cedars reach to the sky, and the ride to our friends' home which is on the other side of the island took us on hilly roads, past fields, forest, the ferry landing, and some of the most pristine coves I've ever seen. We settle in, and exhausted, go to sleep. Tomorrow we will tour the homes, start working out, go sight seeing, but tonight we sleep.
Let me digress to tell you something about these islands which sparkle between Canada and the United States. They were discovered in 1791 by the Spanish explorer Lopez Gonzolales de Huro and named for the Greek navigator whose Spanish name was Juan de Fuca, who allegedly sailed these waters in 1792 under the Spanish flag. The Strait of Juan de Fuca was named after him. Both Great Britain and Spain claimed the islands until a 1790 treaty gave control to Britain, thus averting a war. In 1872 an agreement was reached to give possession to the United State, averting the Pig War. This, according to our bus driver in Canada, was to be fought over a pig, but in reality, both countries claimed the islands before the treaty was signed and for 12 years both stayed at the ready to fight.
Each island has a different flavor and size. Orcas, which is rather large for the San Juans, looks like a saddle bag. On the ferry we passed one small, rather flat dry looking island which had just sold for $14 million plus. Despite the obvious wealth that abounds and after visiting the four main islands (Orcas, Shaw, San Juan, and Lopez), we found that the natives and summer visitors alike were laid back and friendly, and that life on the islands has a rhythm that makes one feel that whether sailing, canoeing, climbing a mountain, visiting a lake and beach, strolling a small town or just reading a book on a deck, you are a native the moment you kick off your shoes, put on a pair of jeans or shorts, and forget to answer the cell phone, which is likely the office calling. The topography may be different from island to island, the number of people more or less, but the style of living in the San Juan Islands is good. Fresh vegetables abound, flowers grow with abandon, and you can do everything or nothing to enjoy your vacation.
Friday morning dawns with a clear blue sky and cool temperatures. Our fitness coach, Suki, has us stretching on the deck overlooking the cove and the strait. Flowers blooming in pots knock our socks off while herons soar, geese honk, and somewhere out there, seals play, whales spout, and we don't mind at all that we are exercising tight muscles through the movements.
Suki had been one of our teachers at the Ranch and agreed to take us through two days of exercise before she headed on to another commitment. We lucked out because we now consider her a friend. After stretching we take a brisk walk through the woods and then out onto a smaller road which skirts the back side of the cove. We see a neighbor jogging, but no one else, and the canopy of firs and red peeling Madrona trees make us whisper in the quiet while trying to collect our collective breaths as we move quickly over the steep inclines. Home again, a fruit break and we're ready to clean up for the day. Our friend has kindly asked her talented local housekeeper to cook lunch and dinner for us that first day, and in return, we made another friend. We all took Suki's Yoga class together that afternoon and since the kitchen is open to the rest of the house, we found ourselves drawn into lively conversation as we were attracted by the aroma of fresh herbs, home-made focaccia, and garlic everywhere.
Our dinner was roasted vegetables, including varieties of squash that were new to us, and pesto and spinach stuffed peppers with tandori grilled turkey breast and fresh fruit for dessert. Oops, I forgot the focaccia. A mistake because it was almost gone before it was placed on the buffet. Luckily for us there were leftovers from the rest of the meal for lunches and snacks so we could recycle food and make new meals. The turkey became melon and turkey curry salad, and the vegetables topped tossed salads. The roasted peppers became the base for poached eggs for a festive brunch and the focaccia was gone, nibbled up by the end of that first night.
On Saturday, instead of stretching we learned Qi Gong, a Chinese set of exercises that date back 3,000 years. Qi means life force and Gong means to cultivate. To do these exercises is to bring vitality, health, and well being into our lives. The movements are done slowly so as to allow the mind to focus the Qi and from that, allow the Qi to move the body. We finished the Qi Gong and headed out for a walk, then into the showers, and a ferry ride to Anacortes, a town on the mainland where some of our friends wished to shop. We went, we saw, we came home exhausted and then stayed up too long talking as if we had turned back the years to summer camp at age 16. Laughing had become a way of life and we were loving every guffaw and belly laugh.
Sunday dawns another perfect day. It seems that the sky and seas vie for the first prize in blues. We start out with a Yoga stretch and our walk which get a bit longer and faster each day. Now, it's time to clean up and drive to Eastsound to drop off one of our friends at Mass and we go to the market to replenish the fridge. See that person dressed incognito? Well, although you'd never guess, that's me wearing mud from the waist down, holding a red shoe and being held up by the oar. We went canoeing and kayaking. To get the boats launched, we had to carry them down rocks into the water, so we decided to come in on the sand bar, but surprise! The sand bar was a mud flat, and since I was first in, I sank into the mud. You had to be there to appreciate the humor or it all, but those red shoes which were sucked into the mud while I was still wearing them, are still on the island, a testament to our fun and our group's slow sinking into the flats as we dragged our crafts to higher grounds--an afternoon to remember. How can four middle-aged women laugh that much? I leave it to you, the reader, but while watching the spectacle a neighbor raked and reraked the same four square feet of grass while he watched our antics. After a meal of roasted free-range chicken, turkey-melon salad, and greens with roasted veggies and fruit, we were ready to relive the day and talk until we can't keep our eyes open another minute.
When you speak of color and gardens, one knowledgeable about this part of the world thinks of Butchart Gardens in British Columbia. We did, too. Monday, after our stretch, we headed to the ferry, and a ride to Sidney, a bus to the gardens, and a day tour of the gardens that rock and sock your senses with their beauty. We have all toured gardens around the world. The warm days and cool evenings of this region make the colors vibrant and the blooms at this recovered mining site, the most wonderful of gardens from the rose to the Japanese Garden to the sunken gardens, men and women, alike, are left speechless.
These photos do little justice to the beauty of the fountains and flowers. If you are anywhere near Victoria, do go to this marvel of beauty. You won't be sorry. After a short bus ride into Victoria, and tea at the Empress Hotel gardens, we head across the street to the museum and then back to another double decker bus to Sidney, the ferry home to Orcas, and recap of yet another "perfect" vacation day.
Tuesday and we are exercising and getting ready for more sightseeing, and can you believe...a climb to the top of Mount Constitution on Orcas Island?
The island lakes and hikes are worth the trip along. Eating dinner at a restaurant above a gas station is a stretch of the imagination, but the halibut at Christine's is excellent this evening.
Wednesday and we are still at it. Stretching in the morning and walking. Today, we visit Rosario Resort and see the home a ship builder built. After a lovely lunch we walk around, visit the Spa, and head home to go out once more in the cove before we ferry to the Bay Café. If you have read Snow on the Cedars, you have a picture of this island of Lopez with Shark Reef where the sea rushes through the narrow Cattle Pass, and the natives farm this 12 mile long island, but you will not be prepared for the excellent food of this restaurant. Make reservations and enjoy. You can't go wrong with Christine's or Bay Café.
Our week is over, we've packed, and all too soon, arrive back at the airport in Seattle for our flight home. As we have stated here before, I took along extra meds and diabetes supplies, all packed in my carry-on bag, not in my checked luggage. On any trip or excursion, watch for falling blood sugars as you exert extra calories sightseeing and exercising, not to mention just smiling. Bring a cool pack for your insulin so that you are ready for delayed ferries, which seem to be the rule, rather than the exception. Pack comfortable shoes for walking, sweaters, and film to record memories that are more vivid than any we can remember and let the Northwest hypnotize you with its quiet fog and brilliant shades of blues and greens.
I and my friends are already looking forward to next summer's visit to Orcas Island, this time with our husbands in tow. If you're interested in your own week, weekend, or day on one of these idyllic islands, the San Juan Islands maintain a website at http://sanjuanweb.com/title.html which offers information on lodging, ferry schedules, weather, island happenings, etc.
